I Trulli = Truly Unique

 

The first time I visited Pulgia I, like one and all, couldn’t take my eyes off the odd, even comical domed architecture known as i trulli.  So, what exactly are these structures?  As per the UNESCO World Heritage Centre: “The trulli, limestone dwellings found in the southern region of Puglia, are remarkable examples of drywall (mortarless) construction, a prehistoric building technique still in use in this region. The trulli are made of roughly worked limestone boulders collected from neighbouring fields. Characteristically, they feature pyramidal, domed or conical roofs built up of corbelled limestone slabs.”  The largest number of trulli can be found in the town Alberobello, and because of this it is an UNESCO site.

I have often pondered what the trulli interiors could possibly look like… Maybe the perfect home for the Seven Dwarfs?  Or it could be all white, very minimalist to capture the exterior theme?  Maybe simple, yet elegant?  Or rustic, personifying the idea of a country dwelling?  But, without a doubt unique!  And so, here I am, five years later, back in Puglia, exploring the lovely town of Cisternino and… a trullo!  This particular trullo is owned by a rural farmer, Vito, but he does not reside here, rather he uses it as a rental property.  In fact, Vito finds the fascination with the trulli incomprehensible since the original use was as temporary field shelter for agricultural laborers.  Nevertheless, he and his wife have created a soft, simple and yes, rustic home.  As a designer, I see so much more potential for the interiors, but in the end this trullo is most perfectly at home in its surroundings.      

    

EAT + ITALY, Part II

EATALY exterior signage

Now let’s talk architecture.  Ever since I moved to Rome, there has been this enormous abandoned space that lies beside the Ostiense train station, a stones throw from Garbatella.  Originally built in 1989/90 by the Spanish architect Julio Lafuente as the Air Terminal Ostiense, and more specifically for the 1990 World Cup, it was reduced to a sad building with broken glass and graffiti galore, not to mention the fact that the perimeter porticos were overrun by homeless people.  I believe the homeless have been repositioned… at least I hope they have found safe refuge.  And so the genius behind this new Eataly (the ninth location to open in Italy) is Mr. Oscar Farinetti.  Genius for the overall idea of the business (all Italian products of the utmost quality) and genius for giving rebirth to this four-story, 170,000 sq/ft open space of metal and glazing.

A gastronomic heaven, each product type has its own allotted section, and design for that matter, as the mood changes with the use of colored ceramic tiles (i.e. an array of blues in the seafood section or brick red for the pizza oven).  Or woven Lisart (Antonio Lissoni) woods applied vertically as in the Caffé Vergano; I do quite adore this warm, intimate space that has been created inside such an open setting, most of which encompasses hard surfaces (for photos, see the previous blog post).  This specific café has faux leather upholstered club chairs, but the bulk of the seating, all from Kartell, are the Loulou Ghost and Thalya chairs.  Likewise, various lighting styles from Luceplan illuminate about, whether the Costanza shaded pendants or the featured Hope chandeliers suspended three stories giving a sparkle and a glimpse from every open level.      

And so, in the spirit of Eataly…

“La bellezza salvera’ l’Italia.”  ~Oscar Farinetti

 

Cash register check-out and Exit

 

View from the second floor

An olive tree as center piece for the numerous extra virgin olive oils

View into the pizzeria with brick oven; Costanza pendants

Beautiful basket weave ceramic tiles and marble counter top

Arial view of the Entrance/Exit and cash registers

Custom Hope chandeliers by Luceplan

Bottles upon bottles of reds, broken down by Italian region

View from the wine cellar

Bottles to purchase and fill with the vino sfuso

Bright, yet not tacky row of shopping carts

Signage for Italia, the by-reservation-only restaurant on the top floor

 

EAT + ITALY, Part I

Exterior facade

In Rome for the month of August (and the majority of the summer, for that matter) I have taken refuge in a new construction (i.e. fabulous renovation property) less than a 10 minute walk from my Garbatella apartment.  Taken refuge thanks to the adequate temperature of the air conditioning… but I must say equally because of the wonderful atmosphere… that said, let me edit by adding (between the hours of 10 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.), before the masses of gente converge in this new world called Eataly. 

In fact I am here this morning, as my trusty Acer posts 10:50 a.m., sitting in the Caffé Vergano, savoring a chocolate croissant and a perfectly cocoa dusted marocchino all while Pavarotti serenades me with Nessun Dorma.  Yes, I am in Italy, but specifically at Eataly.  

View of Caffe' Vergano

Caffe' Vergano bar facade

Vintage designed espresso machine

Chandelier from Luceplan

Eataly signage

Luceplan chandelier

Lait gelato shop

Beautiful wood counter top and millwork

View looking toward the bakery; high stool seating

Bespoke espresso cup chandelier in the Illy bar

Illy espresso cups and saucers

Kartell seating in the pastry shop

Delectable delights at the pastry shop

Carrera marble bar facade at the pastry shop

It is now 12:50 p.m. and I have moved on to a perfectly chilled glass of Bollicine di Prosecco and extra crunchy Kettle chips, all Made in Italy.  More tomorrow... 

The Savonarola & Maritime Details

When your backdrop is the sparkling, aquamarine Adriatic Sea you don't need much more to create an alluring beach house.  And yet, my good friend, O. Renzo Linsalata, has created a small gem out of his condo in Torre a Mare, a relaxed beach town about 13 kilometers south of Bari.  It is not just for the positioning on the top floor with multiple balconies overlooking the sea, or for the maritime collections of miniature ships, sunburst motifs, lanterns, compasses, binoculars or pipes (belonging to Renzo's father, Enzo)... But for the furnishing gem, a set of four Savonarola chairs (plus stool, sgabello).  It is a seating arrangement quite unexpected in a beach house, but it is perfectly befitting in this home.  Historically, these X-chairs originate from the Quattrocento in Italy, the Early Renaissance, and are known for their interlacing curved slats with carved wooden back and arms.  The dark wood work (most likely walnut) is beautifully contrast against the white walls (a beach house standard) and they indeed set the tone of the home.  

A pair of Savonarola chairs, plus sgabello

Detail of the Savonarola wood work

Principle painting of the space, reminiscent of the Adriatic

View from the study area out to the Adriatic

Part of the compass and binocular collection

Simple window drape

Pottery of Puglia

Brass porthole inset behind the fish tank

View from the bedroom through the porthole

Dresser in the bedroom with multiple collections

Bespoke copper sink

Bespoke iron cabinet and oven

Custom pantry and kitchen tile floor

Entry gate and vestibule showing a fresco style design of a sea port